Adventures in Loxone: * - My BoM and Parts List

Design Software

I use, and stand by, UPlan.io - I use it to map out and plan all of the locations of which devices my project will need. I don't need/use a lot of it's more advanced features (the wiring diagrams, the BoMs...) but just the ability to drop in the floors of a floorplan, and say "Light go here, switch go here" is so valuable and seamless and I love it and refuse to stop saying how much I like it just for that.

Cabinets and Enclosures

• I strongly recommend (and am a distributor for) Future Automation Loxone Cabinets. I know they're more expensive than other cabinets. But dear lord are they worth it.

• Cable Gland for the 120VAC Power Cable

  • I had to 3D print a reduction washer to hold the 'proper' size of cable gland in the 1 & 3/8" knockouts on my Future Automation Cabinets. Happy to draw/design one for you if you need another size.

• Stabilization for the Class 2 Tree Wires

  • I put this just outside the cabinet, and zip-tie my tree cables to it, so that they're restrained/controlled prior to entering the knock-outs. This lets me 'just' use the standard rubber gasket on the outside of the knock-outs, and not need a proper cable gland for each of these, which would be painful.

The 120VAC Side of Things

• NEMA 5-15P or 5-20P

• 14/3 Power Supply Wire (Must be a certain kind!)

• DIN-Rail Power Supply Disconnect Altech KU316N (16A) and KU325N (25A)

  • And associated handle K/KU3P (Y/R) - I like the Red/Yellow as it stands out more.

• WAGO TOPJOB S DIN Rail Terminal Blocks - Three Tier with Common Potentials

  • 2002-3208 12-22AWG Gray Three-tier 6-terminal 1-potential (and gray end-plate 2002-3291, and orange end-plate 2002-3292)

    • How I connect/distribute my 120VAC to all of my supplies - I use one or more for neutral, and a like-number for hot

    • Gray end plates for neutral, orange end-plate for hot

  • 2002-3201 12-22AWG Gray Three-tier 6-terminal 3-potential (and end-plate 2002-3291)

    • Less-used - only here for reference if you need them

  • WAGO TOPJOB S Jumpers 2002-400 - you need these to join TopJob S terminals to each other. As one example, I needed three neutral terminal blocks, which used 2 of these jumpers, as in (Block0 - jumper - Block1 - jumper - Block 2) and now all three blocks are in-common.

• 14AWG THHN Solid (Black, White, Green)

  • You can likely source this from any local electrical supply house off of their spools - it's disgustingly common

• Wire Labels - it's important to get them 1.5mm sized, so they work on. both the 14AWG wire and 18AWG wire we use

The 24VDC Side of Things

• Loxone 24VDC Class 2 100W Supplies

• Meanwell 24VDC External Supplies

  • 100W Class 2

  • 240W not Class 2

  • Nema 5-15P

• Weidmuller DIN Rail Terminal Blocks

  • Weidmuller 1173800000 DIN Rail Terminal Blocks PRV 8 SW 35X7.5 WS/RT and matching 1173720000 PAP PRV/PPV8 SW

    • I use one of these for every tree extension. It has 8 potentials, meaning it can handle 2x (Tree+, Tree-, 24VDC, 0VDC), and allow me to plug/unplug things from the tree extensions (as otherwise, once I plug something into them, it's just... locked in forever). I get them with both red and white terminals, so I can more easily tell the two trees apart on the unit. If I had more rail space, I would likely use two PRV 4 SW 35x7.5 units (one on each side), but this saves me rail space. If you wanted to do that, look up...

      • 1173830000 (red terminals), 1173840000 (white terminals), and their side-plate 1173750000

  • Weidmuller 1301630000 DIN Rail Terminal Blocks PPV 4 OR 35X7.5 DGR and not-quite-matching 1173750000 PAP PRV/PPV4 SW

    • These are orange, common-potential (all terminals connected), and I use them to spread the +24VDC to the Miniserver and extensions. I often only need one of these for the entire cabinet. Maybe two at most - you shouldn't try and connect the +24VDC of all of your Class 2 supplies!

  • Weidmuller 1267920000 DIN Rail Terminal Blocks PPV 4 BL 35X7.5 DGR and matching 1268010000 PAP PRV/PPV4 BL

    • These are blue, common-potential (all terminals connected), and I use them to spread the +0VDC to everything. I connect the V- of all of my 24VDC supplies here. I connect the bottom of all of my extensions here. This is basically my +0VDC Reference Potential. I often have one of these per DIN rail in my cabinet.

• 18AWG THHN Solid (Blue, Orange, Yellow, Violet/Purple)

• 18 AWG TFN Stranded (Blue, Orange, Yellow, Violet/Purple) with Ferrules (you can't insert stranded into any of these parts)

  • Note: Wire and Cable Your Way has a lot more colors, if you want to get fancier - I will likely be buying their white-striped colors as well next order,

    • Ferrules and Crimper

• Wago Inline Lever Nuts 221-2401

  • I sometimes use these to connect the output of my Class 2 supplies to the 'thick' parts of the tree cable, and I do it 'just at' the place where the green/white parts of the tree cable enter the Tree Extension. This way, my 'exterior' tree cable 'terminates' at the tree extension, and I 'just' have to bring the blue and orange 24VDC wires up inside my cabinet to the extension, then use these to connect over. I use double-sided industrial tape to hold them in place to the cabinet or extension itself.